2023 Vasse Felix Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Margaret River

Yes, there’s a touch of colour, an amber-gold, and appealing chewy phenolics because this is fermented wild in French oak foudres and puncheons, with a portion of skin-contact. This creates all that texture and grip and interest. It’s not a fruity, tropical, boring drink, it’s complex, smokin’ and an excellent food wine. It’s all savoury, and more about the palate with raw quince tannins, dabs of spice, crisp acidity and finishes very dry. Sure, it’s not for everyone, just more for me then.

95 points Special Value Jane Faulkner Halliday Wine Companion

Few names carry as much weight in Margaret River as Vasse Felix, the region’s founding estate established by Dr Tom Cullity in 1967. From the beginning, the aim was clear, to craft wines that reflected the maritime influence and gravelly loam soils of Wilyabrup. Today, under the careful guidance of winemaker Virginia Willcock, the estate continues to set the benchmark, and their Sauvignon Blanc shows a more refined, textural side of the variety that feels distinctly Margaret River rather than overtly tropical.

Fresh citrus and green apple lead, followed by hints of gooseberry, kaffir lime and a subtle herbal lift. There is a gentle layering here that comes from thoughtful handling in the winery, often with a touch of lees work that builds texture without sacrificing vibrancy. The palate is bright and energetic, yet carries a soft, rounded feel through the middle, finishing clean with a fine mineral thread that speaks to the coastal vineyards.

Drinking beautifully now while the aromatics are at their peak, though it will hold nicely over the next few years, developing a little more complexity and softness. It is a style that balances freshness with quiet sophistication.

A natural match for freshly shucked oysters, grilled prawns with chilli and lime, or a Vietnamese herb salad with lemongrass chicken. It thrives with food that echoes its brightness and lift, making it a perfect choice for long lunches near the water.