2023 Vincent Dancer Bourgogne Blanc, Burgundy

Aromas of white flowers, pear, crisp green apple and toasted nuts introduce Dancer's 2023 Bourgogne Blanc, a medium-bodied, satiny and fine-boned white with a delicate, early-picked profile.

Théo Dancer bottled all his 2023s in October under Diam 30 (in 2022, everything was bottled under Diam except the Chevalier-Montrachet), since he is beginning construction of a new winery, sacrificing a bit of Chassagne-Montrachet to expand the size of his cellars. It has been several years now since Théo took the reins here, and the evolutions continue. An agroforestry project in the Hautes-Côtes is underway, combining vineyard development with fruit trees and flowering verges. Along the Côte, Dancer is now pruning without a cane and attaching his vines to individual "échalas" stakes, reducing cultivation of the soils to the bare minimum. In the cellar, Théo has banished all new oak (never an important presence, in any case, at this address), instead preferring to purchase used larger-format barrels from another winemaker. The cellar has also been given a thorough cleaning. The 2023s are a strong follow-up to the 2022s, exhibiting good depth and cut, and while Dancer was a little concerned about comparatively high turbidity in some cuvées, given their earlier-than-usual bottling, I didn't see anything to cause concern.

87 points robertparker.com

Vincent Dancer Bourgogne Blanc is anything but a simple regional white. Crafted by one of Burgundy’s most revered low-intervention winemakers, this wine is a window into Dancer’s refined, terroir-driven style, even at the entry level. Based in Meursault, Dancer brings the same meticulous organic farming and gentle cellar approach to his Bourgogne Blanc as he does to his top Premier Crus.

Sourced from parcels just outside the Meursault appellation boundary, this Chardonnay offers surprising depth and elegance. The fruit is hand-picked, whole bunch pressed, fermented with wild yeasts and matured in older French oak barrels without fining or filtration. The result is purity in motion — a wine that’s both restrained and quietly expressive.

Expect notes of lemon curd, white flowers, stone fruit and a hint of struck match. There’s a lovely line of acidity that gives lift and energy, balanced by subtle lees texture and a chalky, mineral backbone. It's beautifully composed and remarkably persistent for a wine at this level.

Serve it with grilled whiting and beurre noisette, soft cheese and baguette, or a spring vegetable tart. While delightful young, it will also age gracefully for up to 5 years.