2023 Vincent Girardin Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Burgundy

Vincent Girardin began with just two hectares inherited from his family in Santenay in 1980 and built the domaine into an impressive collection of Côte de Beaune vineyards. When the business changed hands in 2011, long time winemaker Eric Germain remained in charge of the cellar, preserving the increasingly restrained direction he had helped shape. At the top of the white wine range sits Corton Charlemagne, one of Burgundy’s great Chardonnay Grand Crus and a wine that demands patience.

The vineyard sweeps around the upper slopes of the Hill of Corton, where Chardonnay grows on steep, limestone rich soils with marl and excellent drainage. Altitude and exposure give Corton Charlemagne its fascinating combination of power and tension. The 2023 vintage provides ripe, concentrated fruit, but this terroir has the mineral backbone and acidity to keep that generosity tightly controlled. It is still very young, and I would resist opening it unless curiosity gets the better of you.

Pale luminous gold, with white peach, nectarine and Meyer lemon initially held quite tightly before grapefruit and citrus blossom emerge. Hazelnut, almond meal and subtle brioche follow, joined by struck flint, chalk and a faint smoky reduction. The palate is concentrated and broad shouldered but beautifully precise, with stone fruit and lemon curd wrapped around bright acidity and a formidable mineral core. Preserved citrus, toasted almond and chalk build through an exceptionally long, savoury finish.

Butter poached lobster with lemon and chives has enough richness for the wine without becoming a distraction. Turbot with beurre blanc, grilled marron, scallops with cauliflower and brown butter or a Comté soufflé would be equally luxurious company. 

Cellaring: Drink from 2030 to 2050+.