2023 William Fevre Bougros Chablis Grand Cru, Burgundy

Sourced from 60- to 70-year-old vines rooted in deep soils and invariably among the richer, more muscular wines in the range, the 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros delivers aromas of peach, orange oil, beeswax, honeysuckle and pear. Medium- to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it possesses a rich core of fruit underpinned by ripe yet lively acidity. It is the fleshier and most demonstrative wine in the lineup.

93 points robertparker.com

Mid lemon yellow. The bouquet is surprisingly reticent, but suggests body to follow. The 2023 Bougros has retained a fresh white fruit on the palate, plenty of energy behind, nicely balanced because Bougros can be clumsy, with fine length. Drink from 2028-2036. Tasted Jun 2024.

91-93 points Jasper Morris MW insideburgundy.com

At the western entrance to the famous Grand Cru hillside in Chablis lies Bougros, a sun drenched vineyard that produces some of the most generous and powerful wines of the appellation. Facing south west and planted on the region’s celebrated Kimmeridgian limestone soils, Bougros benefits from excellent sunlight while retaining the mineral tension that defines great Chablis. Domaine William Fèvre, founded in 1959, is one of the most important estates in the region and holds outstanding parcels across the Grand Cru slope. Under the guidance of winemaker Didier Séguier the domaine focuses on careful vineyard management and precise winemaking so the character of each vineyard remains clearly expressed.

The wine shows a pale gold colour with brilliant clarity. Aromas open with lemon zest, ripe apple and white peach layered with white blossom, flint and a subtle oyster shell minerality. With time in the glass gentle notes of almond, hazelnut and light brioche begin to appear, adding depth while preserving the wine’s freshness. The palate is broad and concentrated yet beautifully balanced with vibrant acidity carrying flavours of citrus, orchard fruit and chalky minerality across a textured frame. Bougros often shows a slightly richer style among the Grand Crus, finishing long, saline and impressively persistent.

This is a wine built to age and will continue to evolve for twenty years or more. It pairs wonderfully with lobster, scallops, grilled turbot, oysters or refined seafood dishes.