2023 William Fevre Les Clos Chablis Grand Cru Half Bottle 375ml, Burgundy

Derived from over 70-year-old vines at the top of a south- and southeast-facing slope, the 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos opens with a deep bouquet of orange peel, Anjou pear, beeswax and jasmine, mingling with notes of warm stones. Full-bodied, multifaceted and layered, it is concentrated and enveloping, with a muscular core balanced by ample chalky extract that imparts a sensation of freshness, laden with racy acidity and culminating in a long, saline finish. Harmonious yet built for the long term, it will richly reward patience.

96 points Robert Parker

A glowing lemon and lime colour. The bouquet is very backward at first, less demonstrative than Preuses. A greater richness of texture than Côte Bouguerots to add to the chiselled white fruit intensity and them a gorgeous, concentrated succulent aftertaste without sucrosity. Good acidity at the back. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Jun 2024.

94-96 points Jasper Morris MW Inside Burgundy

From the largest and most powerful of Chablis’ Grand Cru vineyards, William Fèvre Les Clos delivers a commanding yet beautifully refined expression of Chardonnay. Domaine William Fèvre, one of the great names of Chablis, farms significant holdings in Les Clos, where Kimmeridgian limestone soils and a warm, south west exposure produce wines of depth, structure and remarkable longevity. This is the pinnacle of Chablis, combining intensity with precision in a way few sites can match.

A pale gold with green flashes sits in the glass with quiet authority. Aromas unfold in layers, lemon curd, ripe citrus and white peach intertwined with oyster shell, chalk, flint and a subtle smoky complexity. There is both breadth and tension here, powerful yet finely detailed.

The palate is full and structured, delivering concentrated citrus and stone fruit wrapped around vibrant acidity and a firm mineral core. Notes of hazelnut, saline freshness and gentle oak integration build through the mid palate, leading to a long, commanding finish that feels both expansive and precise. This is a Grand Cru built for the long haul, evolving over fifteen to twenty five years into layers of honey, toast, truffle and deep mineral complexity.

Butter poached lobster, grilled turbot with brown butter, or a rich seafood stew infused with saffron and herbs. A late night pairing of Beethoven’s late string quartets or something equally profound, the wine unfolding slowly, powerful, layered and completely absorbing.