2023 William Fevre Les Clos Chablis Grand Cru Magnum 1.5L, Burgundy

Magnum 1.5L

Derived from over 70-year-old vines at the top of a south- and southeast-facing slope, the 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos opens with a deep bouquet of orange peel, Anjou pear, beeswax and jasmine, mingling with notes of warm stones. Full-bodied, multifaceted and layered, it is concentrated and enveloping, with a muscular core balanced by ample chalky extract that imparts a sensation of freshness, laden with racy acidity and culminating in a long, saline finish. Harmonious yet built for the long term, it will richly reward patience.

96 points robertparker.com

A glowing lemon and lime colour. The bouquet is very backward at first, less demonstrative than Preuses. A greater richness of texture than Côte Bouguerots to add to the chiselled white fruit intensity and them a gorgeous, concentrated succulent aftertaste without sucrosity. Good acidity at the back. Drink from 2030-2040. Tasted Jun 2024.

94-96 points Jasper Morris MW insideburgundy.com

On the right bank of the Serein River sits Les Clos, the largest and most revered of Chablis’ seven Grand Cru vineyards, a sun drenched slope of ancient Kimmeridgian limestone that has defined the pinnacle of Chardonnay in northern Burgundy for centuries. Domaine William Fèvre is one of the historic guardians of this legendary site, founded in 1959 and now holding one of the most significant collections of Grand Cru vineyards in Chablis. Under the guidance of winemaker Didier Séguier, the estate farms its vineyards with great care, emphasising sustainable practices and minimal intervention in the cellar. Les Clos is considered the most powerful and complete of the Chablis Grand Crus, producing wines of depth, structure and remarkable longevity.

The colour is pale gold with brilliant clarity. Aromas open slowly with lemon zest, green apple and white peach layered with oyster shell, crushed stone and delicate white flowers. As the wine breathes, hints of hazelnut, brioche and subtle spice begin to appear, adding complexity without overshadowing the vineyard’s mineral core. The palate is concentrated yet incredibly precise, with vibrant acidity carrying flavours of citrus, orchard fruit and saline minerality across a powerful and finely textured structure. The finish is long, chalky and persistent, leaving an impression of purity and elegance that is unmistakably Chablis.

This is a Grand Cru built for patience and will continue to evolve gracefully for twenty years or more. At the table it is superb with lobster, scallops, turbot, oysters or dishes that highlight the wine’s mineral precision.