2023 Wilson Polish Hill River Riesling, Clare Valley

This 2023 release sees a dialling up of concentration from the 2022. Good news. Glass-shard texture, crunchy and bright, lots of Pink Lady apple, pink grapefruit, slate-like minerality and a coursing line of zesty acidity that draws the wine to a fine point, long and persistent in flavours. The perfume is mostly floral, citrusy too, some powder puff and lavender in there alongside. There's a pleasing drinkability despite the crackle of acidity and general crunch to the texture, and the wine feels compelling overall.

93 points Special Value Mike Bennie Halliday Wine Companion

94 points Gary Walsh The Wine Front

Up in the Polish Hill River subregion, where red slate soils and elevation shape some of Clare Valley’s most distinctive Rieslings, the Wilson family has carved out a reputation for wines that are both precise and full of personality. Established by Mick and wife Julie Wilson, with son Tom now driving the winemaking, this is a small, hands on operation that knows its vineyards intimately.

The style here leans into tension and clarity. Lime juice and zest jump straight out of the glass, followed by green apple and a hint of grapefruit pith. There is a distinctive mineral edge, almost steely, that speaks clearly of Polish Hill River’s leaner, more structured profile compared to Watervale’s softer charm.

On the palate it is tightly coiled, with bright acidity cutting a clean line through the citrus fruit. It feels dry and focused, finishing long with a mouth watering snap and that lingering slatey minerality. There is a real sense of energy, the kind of Riesling that feels built more on structure than fruit weight.

This is a natural partner for fresh oysters, sashimi, or seared scallops with a squeeze of lemon. It also handles spice beautifully, try it with Thai green curry or Vietnamese dishes where the acidity can refresh and reset the palate.

Give it time and it will reward. Five to fifteen years will see those citrus notes evolve into toast, honey and more savoury complexity, while that firm acid line keeps everything vibrant.