2023 Yalumba The Virgilius Viognier, Eden Valley

Yalumba's Virgilius Viognier remains a benchmark for the variety in Australia. Expressive but so finely focused and precise, nothing blown out of proportion, no mean feat with this persnickety variety. Tautly stretched citrus fruits with a whiff of apricot kernel and hints of white flowers, crushed stone, almond meal, white flowers, some distant marzipan and clover blossom. Stony-pure on the palate with a lovely bright mineral cadence and a dry, enduring finish.

96 points Special Value Dave Brookes winecompanion.com.au

Yalumba The Virgilius Viognier is not only one of Australia’s most highly regarded white wines, it is also the culmination of Yalumba’s pioneering work with Viognier — a variety that was almost extinct when the Hill-Smith family first planted it in the Eden Valley. In the 1980s, when Viognier was barely known outside of Condrieu in the Rhône, Yalumba was bold enough to import plant material and begin experimenting. Over the years they became the first winery in Australia to truly commit to Viognier, dedicating decades to understanding how it responded to different soils, climates, and winemaking approaches.

This long history of trial and refinement has shaped The Virgilius, which was first released in the late 1990s as the pinnacle of Yalumba’s work with the grape. Named after the Roman poet Virgil, it reflects both artistry and patience, representing Yalumba’s belief in crafting wines of substance rather than following trends. Today, The Virgilius is recognised internationally as one of the finest Viogniers outside France, and often considered a benchmark against which others are measured.

The fruit comes from Yalumba’s Eden Valley vineyards, where elevation and cool nights ensure slow ripening. Grapes are handpicked, whole-bunch pressed, and wild-fermented in seasoned French oak barriques, with lees stirring adding richness and complexity. The wine shows aromas of apricot kernel, white peach, ginger and honeysuckle, underpinned by nutty, savoury layers and a silky, waxy texture balanced by Eden Valley’s natural acidity. It has an ability to evolve in bottle over eight to ten years, gaining notes of honey, roasted nuts and exotic spice with age.

Food pairings highlight its texture and aromatics. It is exceptional with saffron-infused lobster, spiced duck with apricots, or North African tagines. It also complements mildly spiced Asian cuisine, like Thai coconut curries, where its aromatics echo the dish while its acidity balances richness.