2023 Yangarra Roussanne Biodynamic, McLaren Vale

This is quite a wine. It’s both intensely flavoured and intensely characterful, and as a result I suspect that it won’t be for everyone. But wow, really, it kind of blows me away that you can pick a wine like this off the shelf for $38. It’s a bit sherry-like, and stony, and floral, and briny, and driven by citrus and nectarine, and at the very least, savoury more than it is fruity. And yet it’s intense. There’s a creamy, cedary, almost mint-like aspect but these characters are washed through with brine, and by the rocky dryness of the finish, and by the inflections of burnt butter and chestnut. It’s all quite arresting. And compelling.

95 points Campbell Mattinson winecompanion.com.au

From two estate blocks, handpicked and basket pressed. Fermented wild in older French puncheons; matured for eight months with monthly lees stirring. This is a foil to the Roux Beauté bottling, more built on slippery texture than pithy structure, with notes of stone fruit, dried lime, green melon and ripe pear. There are refined herbal accents, too, leaning into soft mint leaves, pine and furry young sage, rather than anything expressly green, with a subtle nutty brininess to close. It’s very fine expression of the grape, and further emphatic proof of its suitability to the Vale.

95 points Special Value Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

Yangarra Roussanne from McLaren Vale is an exceptional wine that showcases the potential of Rhone varietals in Australia's warm climate. Crafted by winemaker Peter Fraser, known for his commitment to biodynamic farming and minimal intervention, this Roussanne is a standout example of how the region’s terroir can shape a wine that's both rich and refreshing. The winery's dedication to crafting wines that are true to their origins has earned praise from critics and wine enthusiasts alike.

The grapes for this Roussanne are sourced from Yangarra’s estate vineyards, where the combination of well-drained soils and the cooling influence of the Southern Ocean helps preserve the wine’s natural acidity, ensuring balance and freshness. Peter Fraser’s approach to winemaking allows the fruit to speak for itself, with fermentation occurring in a mix of French oak barrels and stainless steel, which gives the wine depth while maintaining its vibrancy. It is then aged on its lees, adding complexity and texture to the wine.

The result is a wine that is both aromatic and expressive. The nose is a lovely blend of ripe stone fruits like peach and apricot, with hints of honey, floral notes, and a touch of nutty complexity. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, with a creamy texture that is balanced by crisp acidity. The fruit flavors continue, with a rich mouthfeel and flavors of citrus, pear, and a subtle minerality that adds a refreshing edge. The oak aging imparts a slight toastiness, rounding out the wine and giving it a long, satisfying finish.

Yangarra Roussanne is a versatile wine that pairs beautifully with a variety of dishes. It’s fantastic with roasted chicken, creamy risottos, or seafood dishes, especially those with richer sauces or flavors like lobster or grilled prawns. It also complements soft cheeses such as goat cheese or Brie. With its complexity and ability to evolve, it’s a wine that’s perfect for both immediate enjoyment or aging.