2023 Yves Cuilleron Marsanne Les Vignes d’à Côté, Northern Rhone

From parcels just beyond the Saint Joseph boundary, this Vignes d’à Côté bottling lets Yves Cuilleron show Marsanne in a purer, more lifted frame. Based in Chavanay, he’s built his reputation on precision and site clarity, and here he leans into freshness rather than weight, keeping the variety’s natural richness in check.

The 2023 vintage opens with ripe pear, quince and yellow apple, backed by a touch of citrus zest. There’s a gentle floral note and a savoury thread of almond, fennel and soft spice, with a faint stony edge that gives the wine definition.

On the palate it’s medium bodied with a silky, lightly waxy texture that’s classic for Marsanne. Orchard fruit carries through, but there’s a clean line of acidity that keeps everything moving, finishing with a subtle nutty, mineral edge and a hint of warmth.

Cuilleron’s approach is measured and thoughtful, careful fermentation and restrained oak building texture without masking the fruit, resulting in a wine that feels composed and quietly expressive.

This is a great match for seafood with a bit of depth. Think scallops with brown butter and capers, grilled king prawns with fennel and citrus, or a saffron and tomato fish stew. It also shines with vegetarian dishes like pumpkin and sage gnocchi, white bean and rosemary casserole, or roasted cauliflower with tahini and toasted almonds, where the wine’s texture and savoury edge come into play.

Drinking beautifully now, it will pick up more honeyed and nutty complexity over the next few years while holding its balance.