2023 Zarate Albarino Rías Baixas, Galicia

Aromas of brine, citrus and crusted salt. The palate is direct, vertical, saline, super drinkable and accessible. Pristine and beautiful. This comes from six parcels in Meano in Padrendas. A third goes through malolactic fermentation. Drink now.

92 points jamessuckling.com

Zárate Albariño from Rías Baixas is a benchmark example of Galicia’s most prized white grape, combining coastal freshness, textural depth and unmistakable Atlantic energy. The Zárate estate, located in the heart of the Val do Salnés subregion, has been family-run since 1707 and is now guided by Eulogio Pomares, one of Spain’s most respected winemakers. Under his stewardship, Zárate has become synonymous with precision and purity, crafting Albariños that balance saline minerality with citrus brightness and gentle lees texture.

The grapes come from estate vineyards planted on granitic soils, just a few kilometres from the Atlantic Ocean. The maritime influence moderates the temperature and enhances the natural acidity that defines Rías Baixas wines. The fruit is hand harvested and gently pressed, with fermentation carried out using indigenous yeasts in stainless steel. The wine then rests on its fine lees for several months, developing subtle weight and complexity without losing its electric freshness.

In the glass it shines pale straw with green highlights. The aroma is clean and vibrant, with lemon zest, white peach, sea spray and delicate floral notes. On the palate it is crisp and layered, offering flavours of citrus, pear and green apple supported by chalky minerality and mouthwatering acidity. The finish is long, saline and refreshing, a pure reflection of its coastal origin.

Zárate Albariño is perfect with fresh oysters, grilled fish, octopus, shellfish paella or Galician-style mussels. It also pairs beautifully with sushi or light Mediterranean dishes. While delicious in its youth for its energy and brightness, it will develop honeyed, nutty depth over five years of careful cellaring.