2024 Aphelion Hickinbotham Grenache, McLaren Vale

There were three Aphelion single-block micro-bottlings from the Hickinbotham vineyard, Clarendon, in '24. This is not an assemblage of those, rather a 100% whole bunch ferment (the block wines were destemmed) of 111–112 blocks as one. This is my pick of the three – gloriously fragrant and complex, invested with depth and absent of heft. A swirl of red florals, souk spices, sandalwood, cranberry, sour cherry and umeboshi. The whole bunch adds savouriness, detail, lift and finely etched tannin, but knits in so quietly, with effortless integration. It’s a wine that makes me want to linger over the nose, so captivating is the fragrance. But it’s equally good on the palate, trailing long, the flavour fanning out expansively. Superb.

97 points Special Value Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

Aphelion Hickinbotham Grenache is a beautifully poised and vibrant expression of McLaren Vale Grenache, crafted from one of the region’s most celebrated vineyard sites. Aphelion is a boutique winery founded by Rob Mack and Louise Rhodes, quickly gaining a reputation for producing elegant, terroir-driven wines that focus on Grenache and Mediterranean varieties. The Hickinbotham vineyard sits on elevated terrain in Clarendon, at the cooler, northern end of McLaren Vale, and is renowned for producing fruit of exceptional perfume, energy, and definition.

The vines grow on ancient sandy loam over ironstone and clay, which naturally limit yields and produce berries with intensity and finesse. The site’s elevation brings cooler nights and a longer ripening season, allowing Grenache to develop layered aromatics and fine tannins while retaining fresh acidity. Rob Mack takes a gentle, hands-off approach in the winery to let the fruit shine. Whole berries and a proportion of whole bunches are used during fermentation to enhance fragrance and build delicate structure, with wild yeasts adding texture and complexity. The wine is matured in seasoned French oak to preserve purity and brightness.

In the glass, the Hickinbotham Grenache is a vibrant ruby red. Aromas of wild raspberries, red cherries, rose petals, and subtle baking spice leap from the glass, underpinned by a touch of earth and savoury herbs. The palate is medium bodied, silky, and beautifully balanced, with juicy red fruit, fine chalky tannins, and a long, pure finish that reflects both site and variety. It’s a Grenache that leans toward elegance and precision rather than sheer power.

This wine pairs superbly with roast duck, lamb shoulder with rosemary, chargrilled vegetables, or wood-fired pizza with prosciutto and rocket. Its brightness and spice also make it an excellent match for Middle Eastern dishes like lamb kofta or spiced eggplant. While it’s irresistible young, it has the structure to cellar gracefully for 8 to 10 years, gaining further savoury depth over time.