2024 Atlas 172 Watervale Riesling, Clare Valley

This wine is caught in the light, like pebbles embedded in the river stream, illuminated by the sun. It has a twist of lime, grapefruit flesh, and a touch of musk bath salts. It's racy and tightly tuned, yet there's a generosity that dials up the appeal. There's a metronomic balance between perceived fruit sweetness and the hallmark tang of the variety. It finishes long with persistence and drive – utterly delicious.

95 points Special Value Katrina Butler winecompanion.com.au

Atlas 172 Watervale Riesling is a crisp and expressive Clare Valley classic, showcasing the purity and precision that has made Watervale one of Australia’s most celebrated Riesling subregions. Atlas Wines was founded by Adam Barton and Amy Lane in 2007, and their approach blends modern precision with a deep respect for the land. The “172” in the name refers to the altitude in metres of the vineyards, which sit on the rolling slopes above Watervale, capturing cool breezes that preserve natural acidity and lift aromatics beautifully.

The Watervale subregion is famous for its limestone and clay soils, which give Riesling from here a distinct floral perfume and a chalky, mineral backbone. The 172 site faces east, allowing for gentle morning sun exposure and a longer, slower ripening period that intensifies flavour without sacrificing freshness. The fruit is picked in the cool of night, gently pressed, and fermented at low temperatures in stainless steel to highlight purity, tension, and varietal character.

In the glass, this Riesling is pale straw with green tinges, bursting with aromas of lime zest, white flowers, and wet slate. The palate is vibrant and linear, driven by tangy citrus, green apple, and bath salt minerality. It’s bone dry and finely structured, with a long, precise finish that lingers on lemon pith and chalk. This is a wine that reflects the elegance and clarity of top Watervale Riesling, beautifully balanced and full of energy.

It pairs effortlessly with freshly shucked oysters, prawns with lime and chilli, Thai salads, or delicate white fish dishes. It’s also excellent with goat’s cheese or lightly spiced vegetarian cuisine. While irresistible young, this wine has the structure to age gracefully for 10 years or more, developing classic toasty, honeyed complexity over time.