2024 Benjamin Darnault Picpoul de Pinet, Languedoc

Benjamin Darnault Picpoul de Pinet from the Languedoc is the kind of wine that makes you daydream about long lunches by the Mediterranean. Picpoul translates loosely as “lip stinger,” and this grape certainly brings mouthwatering acidity, but in the hands of a thoughtful winemaker like Benjamin Darnault, that brightness comes wrapped in texture, saline charm and layers of subtle flavour. The vineyards sit on the Thau Lagoon near Sète, a mosaic of limestone, shells and sandy clay deposited by ancient shorelines. The proximity to the sea delivers cooling breezes that help the fruit ripen slowly while preserving tension and a signature hint of briny minerality. Sustainable farming and gentle, low intervention winemaking ensure the purity of the terroir stays front and centre.

The wine opens with breezy coastal aromatics. Lemon peel, grapefruit and crisp green apple lead, joined by white peach and fresh pear. A whisper of sea spray and crushed shells drifts in, along with wild herbs like thyme and fennel from the surrounding garrigue. There’s also a subtle floral note of jasmine and acacia blossom, adding lift without sweetness. As it breathes, hints of melon and a faint almond nuance add quiet depth.

On the palate, it is precise, perfectly zippy and surprisingly textural. Citrus and orchard fruit glide across a lightly silken mid palate from time on fine lees, before tightening into a clean mineral line that feels refreshing and invigorating. Flavours of lime cordial, green melon, pear skin and a touch of salinity keep everything lively. The acidity is crisp but beautifully integrated, making the wine feel both thirst quenching and quietly substantial. The finish is dry, long and more complex than expected, leaving citrus oil, herbs and that salty sea breeze echoing pleasantly.

A glorious match for oysters, prawns, crab rolls, fish and chips by the beach, bouillabaisse, linguine alle vongole, sushi, grilled squid and goat cheese. It is also a brilliant aperitif: chilled, poured and gone before you realise you should have opened two.