2024 Benjamin Leroux Bourgogne Aligote, Burgundy

Old vines in Chassagne. Some reductive quality here, greater intensity than the first Aligoté. Quite generous fruit on the palate, then a little more tension behind. Delicious aftertaste with ripe greengage and some citrus. In bottle Drink from 2027-2030. Tasted Oct 2025 

Jasper Morris MW

Benjamin Leroux is one of the most admired winemakers of his generation in Burgundy. After taking charge of Domaine Comte Armand in Pommard while still in his twenties, he established his own micro négociant operation in Beaune in 2007. Leroux works with an extraordinary spread of vineyards, from regional Burgundy to Grand Cru, farming many parcels himself and working closely with growers. His reputation rests on precision and restraint rather than heavy handed winemaking, and even the humble Aligoté gets serious attention.

Aligoté has enjoyed a well deserved revival in Burgundy, particularly in the hands of growers who treat it as more than the region’s second white grape. Naturally high acidity makes it wonderfully suited to Burgundy’s limestone influenced soils, producing whites with citrus, orchard fruit and a distinctive savoury snap. The cooler 2024 vintage suits the variety particularly well, giving Leroux a bright, tightly drawn wine with plenty of energy.

Very pale straw with green flashes. Lemon, crisp green apple and Nashi pear lead into grapefruit and white flowers, followed by fresh fennel and almond. Crushed stone and a faint smoky note add another dimension. The palate is light and beautifully focused, with crunchy orchard fruit driven by lively acidity. Lemon zest, grapefruit peel and fresh almond tighten the wine further, leaving a dry, chalky and mouthwatering finish.

Steamed mussels with white wine, garlic and parsley are made for this sort of brisk white Burgundy. Oysters, salt and pepper squid, gougères or zucchini flowers filled with goat’s cheese would disappear just as happily alongside. Cellaring: Drink now to 2032.