2024 Bernard Defaix Chablis Grand Cru Bougros, Burgundy

One barrel. Fuller yellow and much oakier, with some spice. Plenty of fruit too, but the oak is currently taking the lead. A long and very saline finish. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted Jul 2025.

90-93 points Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy

Domaine Bernard Defaix is one of Chablis' benchmark family estates, with generations of the Defaix family working the region's distinctive limestone vineyards. Today Didier and Sylvain Defaix continue the domaine's meticulous approach, combining organic viticulture with precise, understated winemaking. Bougros sits at the western end of the famous Grand Cru hillside and is renowned for producing Chablis with impressive power, breadth and mineral intensity.

The 2024 vintage brings freshness and energy to the naturally generous personality of Bougros. Its steep slopes and Kimmeridgian limestone and marl soils give the wine tremendous mineral drive, while the vineyard's favourable exposure builds concentration and texture. Defaix handles that power beautifully, preserving the tension and saline precision that distinguish serious Grand Cru Chablis.

Brilliant pale gold in colour, the bouquet unfolds with lemon zest, ripe pear and white peach layered with citrus blossom, oyster shell and crushed chalk. With air, hints of preserved lemon, toasted almond, wet stone and subtle spice emerge. The palate has impressive breadth and concentration, with citrus and stone fruit wrapped around vibrant acidity and a powerful mineral spine. Rich without heaviness, it builds through the palate before a long, saline and beautifully chiselled finish.

Give this one something luxurious: lobster with beurre blanc, seared scallops, grilled turbot, roast chicken with morels or a platter of oysters and langoustines. Compelling with air in its youth, but its Grand Cru structure and mineral intensity make patient cellaring particularly rewarding.

Cellaring: Drink now with decanting or cellar to 2042+.