2024 BK Wines Swaby Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills

Swaby is an irrefutable comfort for me; year on year, it's irresistibly assertive and consistent. Tensile, spicy – think fenugreek and cardamom pod – with a familiar bitters and tonic note. The acidity soars, with stone-fruit weight, white peach and loquat propelling it. The complexities feel unlimited and unbound. The femme fatale of the BK portfolio. It finishes saline and long, with the salivating tug of phenolics and nutty lees; a call to action for another pour.

95 points Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au

From the cool, elevated vineyards of the Adelaide Hills comes a Chardonnay that reflects both precision and modern minimal intervention winemaking. BK Wines was founded by Brendon and Kirsty Keys, whose approach focuses on small batch, vineyard driven wines that capture the purity of the Hills. Fruit for the Swaby Chardonnay is sourced from carefully selected cool climate sites in the region, where high altitude vineyards, ancient soils and cool nights allow Chardonnay to ripen slowly while preserving vibrant natural acidity and aromatic detail.

Pale straw with a bright green edge, the aromatics are vibrant and finely layered. White peach, lemon zest and grapefruit pith lift from the glass, followed by subtle notes of roasted cashew, citrus blossom and a gentle flinty mineral edge. There is a freshness and clarity that reflect both the cool climate and the careful handling in the winery.

On the palate it is medium bodied with beautiful balance between texture and tension. Stone fruit and citrus glide across a lively backbone of acidity, while gentle lees work and restrained oak add a creamy mid palate without overwhelming the fruit. The finish is long, mineral and focused, lingering with lemon curd and toasted almond notes. It is a modern Adelaide Hills Chardonnay style that favours elegance, freshness and site expression.

Pair with grilled scallops, roast chicken with herbs, pork schnitzel or mushroom risotto. Delicious now for its brightness and detail, it will cellar confidently for eight to twelve years as it develops deeper nutty complexity and savoury nuance.