2024 Castel Firmian Riserva Pinot Grigio, Trentino

Castel Firmian is the premium label for the Mezzacorona cooperative, well known for excellent Pinot Grigio from the Trentino region in northern Italy. Hence, their Riserva is very much flagship material. Specifically, the fruit comes from selected vineyards around the local village of Zambana, and is pressed immediately. Fermentation is in a mix of stainless steel tanks and small oak barrels. This is where we get into the serious end of Pinot Grigio. A deep straw/gold hue, this is, coiled and quite a powerful style of Grigio. We have notes of stone fruits, nectarines, cold tea, figs, pears, orange rind and woodsmoke. There is good focus and intensity here, along with crunchy acidity and very good length. A supple and rather creamy texture. The finish has impressive persistence. It should continue to provide pleasure for the next five to eight years.

93 points Ken Gargett, Wine Pilot

Castel Firmian is the flagship range of Mezzacorona, one of Trentino’s historic wine producers, founded in 1904 and closely tied to the growers of the region. Here in the dramatic Adige Valley, vineyards sit beneath the Dolomites, where warm Alpine sunshine and much cooler nights give white grapes excellent ripeness without losing their natural freshness. Pinot Grigio is a speciality, and the Riserva takes the familiar variety into more serious territory.

Fruit for the Riserva is selected for greater concentration and structure, with additional maturation giving the wine more texture than a straightforward Pinot Grigio. The 2024 retains plenty of mountain freshness, but there is extra depth through the middle, making it a versatile table wine rather than simply something to pour before dinner.

Bright straw gold, with ripe Nashi pear, yellow apple and white peach leading into lemon and grapefruit. Acacia blossom and fennel add fragrance, while almond, subtle spice and a faint creamy note emerge as it opens. The palate is dry and rounded, with generous pear and stone fruit balanced by fresh acidity. Citrus peel and almond tighten the finish, leaving a gently savoury, mineral edge.

Grilled prawns with garlic, lemon and parsley would be terrific, alongside crab linguine, salt and pepper squid, roast snapper with fennel or zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta. Our pick is the crab linguine, with chilli, lemon zest and plenty of parsley to play against the wine’s pear fruit and savoury finish.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2031.