2024 Domaine Collotte Les Grasses Tetes Marsannay, Burgundy

Domaine Collotte is a small family estate based in Marsannay, where Philippe Collotte and his son Maxime work a patchwork of vineyards across the northern Côte de Nuits. The domaine has developed a loyal following for expressive, beautifully handled wines that retain a strong sense of place. Les Grasses Têtes is one of Marsannay’s most highly regarded lieux-dits, sitting on the slopes above the village and producing wines with more depth and structure than the appellation’s modest reputation might suggest.

The 2024 vintage was demanding across Burgundy, with cool conditions and low yields putting vineyard work firmly under the microscope. For diligent growers such as Collotte, the result is wonderfully fragrant fruit with freshness and moderate alcohol. The clay and limestone soils of Les Grasses Têtes bring a darker, more savoury personality, balancing the vintage’s bright fruit with earthy structure and mineral bite.

Bright ruby with crimson edges, the nose opens with Morello cherry, wild raspberry and red plum, followed by violet, dried thyme and a twist of black pepper. With air, hints of black tea, woodland floor and crushed stone appear. The palate has juicy red fruit at its core, framed by fine tannins and lively acidity. There’s an attractive savoury quality underneath — herbs, earth and gentle spice — before a fresh finish of sour cherry and stony minerality.

Put this beside duck breast with cherries, pork belly with fennel, Toulouse sausages and lentils, mushroom and Gruyère tart or a gloriously messy croque monsieur. I’d be particularly tempted by the pork belly: crisp crackling, sweet meat and fennel against that savoury, cherry-driven Marsannay sounds like trouble in the best possible way.

Cellaring: Drink from 2026 to 2036.