2024 Domaine Naturaliste Purus Chardonnay, Margaret River

Flashy, reductive aromas of grapefruit, lime zest, green apples, wet stones, struck match and oyster shells. The palate is tightly wound and precise with driven acidity and a chalky texture, showing lemon pith, white peaches, hazelnuts and flint. Mineral and focused with great tension and length. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

96 points James Suckling, August 2025

Whereas the Artus was kinda funky, this one has a precise purity and freshness about it, showing lots of white peach, a little nectarine, citrus, and a sort of lemon curd–brioche combination. The palate has a slight savoury chalky confluence that comes together and then drives with great purpose through to a long finish. This is the most stylish expression of Margaret River chardonnay that captures the awesome power of the fruit from this region. Cellar for up to 12 years.

97 points Ray Jordan Wine

Tightly wound at first; give it some air to reveal all the detail within. Starts with a hint of frangipani, lime blossom and spicy oak. The palate is linear and very pure, if tight, yet it does reveal stone fruit and grapefruit, with the acidity in the driver’s seat. It’s an appealing option today but will reward more in the next year or so. Drink 2025-2036

95 points Jane Faulkner, Halliday Wine Companion, March 2026

Complex and lifted aromas of cashew, grapefruit pith, stone fruit, spice, jasmine and nougat. There's plenty to like here. Powerful and mouth-filling on the palate, with a drive of citrus, nectarine and nutty, spicy oak. The acidity is lively and brings plenty of shape and there's some pleasing phenolic grip on the finish. Drink 2025–2035.

95 points Aaron Brasher, The Real Review, November 2025

Sourced from one of Margaret River’s most tightly defined Chardonnay sites, this wine is all about purity, power and precision rather than easy charm. Domaine Naturaliste is led by Bruce Dukes, whose background in Burgundy shows clearly in Purus, a Chardonnay shaped by low yields, careful picking and a deep respect for site. The vineyard sits close to the Indian Ocean, where cooling breezes and gravelly loam soils slow ripening and preserve acidity, while Margaret River’s sunlight builds intensity and natural concentration. Purus is made only in standout vintages and represents the most focused, mineral driven expression in the Domaine Naturaliste range. 

Winemaking here is deliberately restrained and classical. Whole bunch pressing, wild fermentation and thoughtful oak are used to frame the fruit rather than flavour it, building texture and structure while keeping the wine tight and energetic. The goal is not richness, but tension and length, producing a Chardonnay that speaks clearly of place and evolves beautifully with time.

In the glass it shows pale gold with green highlights. Aromas are precise and layered, opening with lemon zest, white peach and grapefruit pith, followed by flint, crushed stone, subtle cashew and a faint struck match character. There is a strong saline note running through the bouquet, a hallmark of top Margaret River Chardonnay grown close to the coast.

The palate is powerful yet controlled, with intense citrus and stone fruit carried by a firm, chalky texture and a long, driving acid line. Oak is seamlessly integrated, contributing structure and savoury depth rather than sweetness. The finish is long, mineral and mouthwatering, leaving impressions of citrus oil, wet stone and sea spray. This is a Chardonnay built in a Burgundian mould, less about immediate generosity and more about line, shape and persistence.

At the table it excels with lobster, scallops, grilled fish, roast chicken, veal and dishes with butter, cream or subtle spice. While compelling with air in its youth, Purus truly shines with bottle age and will cellar confidently for ten to fifteen years, developing greater nutty, flinty and savoury complexity while holding its mineral core. A serious, structured Margaret River Chardonnay that rewards patience and attention.