2024 Dr Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Mosel

A striking nose of sliced fennel and fennel seeds. Compact and crisp, this remarkable GG has tons of structure and very good concentration. It needs some time to emerge from its youth. Best after 2026.

95  points James Suckling

The Loosen family have been custodians of some of the Mosel's greatest vineyards for more than 200 years, with Ernst Loosen becoming one of Germany's most influential winemakers and a global ambassador for Riesling. Under his stewardship, Dr Loosen has elevated the estate to iconic status through an unwavering commitment to old vines, steep slopes and expressive terroir.

Erdener Treppchen is one of the Mosel's most distinctive vineyards, its name translating to "little staircase" in reference to the stone steps cut into the precipitous hillside centuries ago. The vineyard's famous red slate soils and dramatic south facing exposure produce Rieslings of remarkable concentration, spice and mineral intensity. As a Grosses Gewächs, this represents the dry pinnacle of German vineyard classification.

The colour is a brilliant pale gold with youthful green highlights. Aromas of lime zest, white peach and green apple rise from the glass alongside notes of jasmine, crushed slate and subtle spice. The palate is powerful yet wonderfully precise, layering citrus and stone fruit over a core of smoky minerality and vibrant acidity. There is impressive texture and concentration, yet the finish remains effortless, saline and endlessly refreshing.

Magnificent with lobster, turbot with beurre blanc, roast chicken with morels or a creamy mushroom tart with thyme. While already captivating, the structure and pedigree suggest this Grosses Gewächs will evolve beautifully over the next two decades.