2024 Francois Chidaine Vin de France Vouvray Baudoin, Loire Valley

From the Baudoin parcel just outside Vouvray, this Vin de France release gives François Chidaine a bit more freedom while still delivering that unmistakable Chenin Blanc character. Farmed biodynamically on limestone and clay, the vineyard brings both texture and a strong mineral spine, and in 2024 it feels especially bright and expressive.

Aromatics are lifted and precise, green apple, pear and quince with a squeeze of lemon and a hint of grapefruit. There is a light floral note and the beginnings of honey and beeswax, alongside a chalky, stony edge that keeps everything focused.

The palate walks a really nice line between energy and texture. Medium bodied with a gentle waxy feel, but driven by a clean, mouthwatering acidity that keeps it moving. Orchard fruit flows into more savoury notes, a touch of almond, a faint saline edge, and a long, mineral finish that tightens things up at the end.

Chidaine’s approach is as thoughtful as ever, native ferment, minimal handling, letting the vineyard do the talking rather than shaping it too heavily in the cellar.

This is made for seafood and dishes with a bit of life to them. Think oysters with a sharp mignonette, scallop crudo with citrus, or grilled sardines with lemon and olive oil. It also handles more robust flavours, like a prawn and chilli pasta, salt cod croquettes, or a simple roast chicken with herbs. On the veg side, something like a tomato and olive tart or a potato and leek dish works beautifully, the acidity cutting through and lifting everything.

Drinking beautifully now for its freshness, it will evolve over the next eight to twelve years, building more honeyed, nutty layers while holding that bright line.