2024 Gembrook Hill Village Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley

Gembrook Hill Village Pinot Noir from the Yarra Valley is a beautifully restrained, fragrant red that reflects both the cool climate finesse of the Upper Yarra and the hands-off philosophy of one of the region’s most revered producers. Gembrook Hill, established in 1983 by Ian and June Marks, is tucked into the southernmost and coolest pocket of the Yarra Valley. Today, the estate is in the hands of winemaker Andrew Marks, who continues to craft wines with a quiet confidence and a deep respect for the land.

The Village Pinot Noir is drawn from younger vines on the estate and nearby sites, intended as a more approachable, earlier-drinking expression compared to the more structured Estate bottling. Still, this is no simple Pinot wild fermentation, a gentle hand in the winery, and minimal new oak ensure a wine that’s layered, textural and authentically expressive of its place.

In the glass, it opens with lifted notes of red cherry, raspberry, rosehip and earthy spice, carried on a light frame with fine tannins and fresh acidity. There’s a lovely purity and perfume that speaks of the high-altitude slopes and volcanic soils that define this corner of the Yarra. The palate is silky and bright, with just enough structure to carry it to the table or the cellar.

Pair it with duck breast and cherry jus, roast quail with thyme, or even a bowl of mushroom and truffle risotto. While drinking beautifully now, it will evolve gracefully over the next four to six years.