2024 Giovanni Rosso Barbera d'Alba DOC, Piedmont

Giovanni Rosso is firmly rooted in Serralunga d’Alba, where the Rosso family has tended vineyards for more than a century. Giovanni’s son Davide took over the winemaking in 2001 after training in Burgundy, gradually lifting the estate into the top ranks of Barolo producers. The philosophy remains refreshingly simple: the vineyard comes first, whether the bottle contains a prized single vineyard Barolo or the family’s Barbera.

Barbera is a very different creature from Nebbiolo. Naturally high in acidity and low in tannin, it produces generous, energetic reds that are enormously comfortable around food. The 2024 Barbera d’Alba captures that easygoing side of Piedmont, with plenty of dark fruit and freshness supported by savoury spice rather than obvious weight or oak.

Deep ruby with black cherry, blackberry and juicy plum at the front, followed by violet, liquorice and a little cracked pepper. The palate is supple and energetic, with Barbera’s lively acidity cutting through the ripe fruit and keeping everything beautifully fresh. Cherry and plum lead into anise, dried herbs and a subtle earthy note, finishing juicy, savoury and ready for another glass.

Mushroom and taleggio pizza has exactly the right combination of richness and earthiness, while pork and fennel sausages, eggplant parmigiana, tomato braised octopus or grilled radicchio with walnuts would all disappear rather quickly beside it. This is the sort of red that earns its keep at the dinner table rather than sitting around waiting for a special occasion. Cellaring: Drink now to 2032.