2024 Graci Etna Bianco, Mt Etna

A leesy, mineral wine with sophisticated apricot fruit wrapped in lemon peel and umami depth. Light- to medium-bodied. Crisp and chewy on the palate with refreshing style and a lavish, fruity finish. Drink or hold.

94 points jamessuckling.com

The Graci Etna Bianco is a striking white wine from the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna, where Alberto Graci has become one of Sicily’s leading modern voices for terroir-driven wines. Since taking over his family estate in 2004, Graci has focused on cultivating indigenous varieties at high altitudes using organic methods, with the aim of letting Etna’s extraordinary terroir speak clearly. His whites, especially the Etna Bianco, are based predominantly on Carricante, a grape that thrives in the mineral-rich, lava-based soils and the dramatic diurnal temperature shifts of the volcano.

Vineyards are situated between 600 and 1,000 metres above sea level on the northern slopes of Etna, where cool nights preserve acidity and slow ripening builds aromatic intensity. The volcanic soils, rich in ash, basalt and pumice, impart a distinct smoky-saline quality. Fermentation is carried out in concrete and large neutral oak, with ageing on lees to enhance texture and complexity while preserving freshness.

In the glass the wine is pale straw with green glints. Aromatically it shows citrus zest, green apple and pear layered with Mediterranean herbs, white flowers, crushed stone and a smoky mineral edge. On the palate it is taut and precise, with racy acidity, citrus and orchard fruit flavours, and a long, saline finish that carries the imprint of Etna’s volcanic soils. A touch of leesy creaminess rounds out the texture without sacrificing clarity.

Food pairings reflect its mineral drive and freshness: grilled swordfish, prawns, spaghetti alle vongole, or vegetarian options like fennel and orange salad or roasted zucchini with ricotta salata. With its vibrant acidity and structure, the Etna Bianco will cellar for 6 to 8 years, developing notes of honey, almond and chamomile while retaining its volcanic backbone.