2024 i Clivi Schioppettino, Friuli

i Clivi has quietly built a reputation for beautifully detailed wines from Friuli’s eastern hills, close to the Slovenian border. Founded by Ferdinando and Mario Zanusso, the estate is particularly associated with old vines and a hands off approach that puts vineyard character ahead of cellar cosmetics. Schioppettino gives them a wonderfully distinctive local red to work with, a grape known for perfume, pepper and naturally lively acidity.

Schioppettino, also known as Ribolla Nera, was once close to disappearing before a handful of Friulian growers helped revive it. It thrives in the marl and sandstone soils known locally as ponca, producing reds that are more about fragrance and savoury detail than sheer weight. The 2024 sits firmly in that camp, with bright fruit, spice and a refreshing structure that makes it particularly versatile at the table.

Clear ruby crimson, the bouquet is wonderfully aromatic with sour cherry, wild raspberry and redcurrant alongside violet and dried rose. Then comes Schioppettino’s calling card: cracked black pepper, joined by juniper, blood orange, dried herbs and a faint earthy note. The palate is light to medium bodied, juicy and energetic, with crunchy red fruit carried by fresh acidity and fine, gently grippy tannins. Pepper and herbs gather through the middle before a dry, spicy finish of cherry skin and orange peel.

This would be terrific with duck and shiitake gyoza, grilled pork skewers with fennel, chicken yakitori, tuna tataki with sesame or charred eggplant with tomato and smoked ricotta. Our pick is the tuna tataki. Barely seared tuna, sesame and soy against all that peppery red fruit makes for a cracking combination.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2032.