2024 Idda Contrada Stella Bianco DOP, Etna

A smoky wine with aromas of petrol, peat and candied lemons. Light-bodied, silky and zesty, with a tight palate and a smoky, lean yet flavorful finish. Drink now.

92 points James Suckling

The collaboration between the Gaja family of Piedmont and the Graci family of Sicily has produced some of the most exciting wines to emerge from Mount Etna in recent years. IDDA, meaning she in the local Sicilian dialect, is an affectionate reference to the volcano itself, a formidable presence that shapes every aspect of life and winemaking on its slopes. Founded by Angelo Gaja and Alberto Graci, the project explores the remarkable potential of Etna's volcanic vineyards, with a particular focus on elegance, freshness and the individuality of each site. Contrada Stella Bianco is a fascinating expression of that ambition, capturing the distinctive mineral personality of Carricante at high altitude.

The vineyards lie on Etna's southwestern slopes, where volcanic soils, cooler temperatures and considerable day to night variation help preserve acidity and aromatic detail. Carricante is particularly well suited to these conditions, producing wines with remarkable tension, citrus intensity and a distinctive saline character. The 2024 vintage combines the grape's natural freshness with the additional texture and complexity that come from careful fermentation and maturation. Rather than relying on overt oak influence, the emphasis is on the purity of the fruit and the unmistakable character of its volcanic origins.

Pale straw yellow with brilliant green reflections. Lemon blossom, grapefruit and white peach lead the aromas, followed by green apple, fennel and a suggestion of crushed volcanic stone. As the wine opens, delicate notes of chamomile, almond and sea spray begin to emerge. The palate is taut and beautifully textured, with vibrant citrus, crisp orchard fruit and a fine mineral thread running through its centre. There is impressive concentration without heaviness, while a subtle savoury quality and pronounced saline freshness carry through a long, precise finish. A wonderfully distinctive white that balances Etna's wild volcanic character with remarkable finesse.

Grilled prawns with lemon and olive oil, whole baked snapper with fennel or linguine with clams would all be excellent companions. It would also be delicious with zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta, asparagus risotto or grilled artichokes with herbs. Serve cool rather than icy cold, allowing the wine's subtle aromatic detail and texture to develop as it warms slightly in the glass.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2034. Carricante's naturally high acidity and mineral structure suggest excellent ageing potential, with additional savoury and honeyed complexity likely to emerge over time.