2024 Jean-Marc Burgaud Cote du Py Morgon, Beaujolais

The 2024 Morgon Côte du Py has a vivid, stony bouquet with redcurrant and raspberry fruit unfolding in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fineboned tannins and a touch more sour cherry in the mix, especially on the piquant finish. Again, this is very promising and might become the edgiest of Burgaud's 2024s. Jean-Marc

90-92 points Neal Martin vinous.com

Burgaud is rightly seen as one of the leading winemakers in Beaujolais. The price for even his top cuvées is a pittance compared to the Côte d’Or, which is partly why quality is not more broadly recognised. Moreover, as I can vouchsafe from first-hand experience, these wines have an unerring ability to age. Readers should peruse previous Beaujolais reports for background details on Burgaud’s holdings and tenets. There are two major positive changes at this address. Firstly, Burgaud is constructing a new winery that will afford much more space than his current facility. Secondly, son-in-law Quentin Uzureau is taking on an increasing role in the winery’s daily operations. When we met last year, Uzureau confessed his nerves handling the tractor through the vines. Burgaud confirmed that since then, Uzureau has become a very able driver. On this occasion, I tasted the 2023s in bottle and 2024s from barrel. “I love the 2023 style,” Burgaud tells me. “I decided to pick four days earlier than planned due to the heatwave. But it was not as easy in 2024.” Burgaud’s 2023s are must-haves for any “Bojo” aficionado. This is Gamay at its purest and most terroir-specific. The wines are less opulent than their 2022 counterparts but may well display more complexity and personality. The top cuvées in Côte du Py, including the Javernières and Cuvée James bottlings, are both exceptional, as are the Grand Cras (which will be renamed La Roche starting with the 2024 vintage) and the Corcelette. Did I mention prices? I did. Good.

Neal Martin vinous.com

From the famed Côte du Py hill, the volcanic heart of Morgon, this wine shows the depth and longevity that set the cru apart. Jean Marc Burgaud farms old vines rooted in decomposed schist and iron rich soils that naturally produce Gamay with power and mineral tension. His approach is grounded in tradition and precision, aiming to let the site speak without cosmetic polish. Côte du Py is often called the soul of Morgon, and this bottling carries that reputation with quiet authority.

Winemaking follows classic semi carbonic fermentation with gentle extraction to preserve perfume while building structure. Ageing refines the wine without stripping its granite edged grip. The result is a Morgon that balances juicy fruit with serious underlying architecture.

Deep ruby in colour, the aromas open with black cherry, raspberry and plum layered with violet, crushed stone and earthy spice. There is a darker mineral tone that marks the Py terroir. The palate is medium to full bodied and silky yet firm, with concentrated red and dark fruit wrapped in fine tannins and bright acidity. Flavours of berry, spice and mineral notes run long, finishing dry and savoury with impressive persistence.

It pairs beautifully with roast chicken, pork, duck and mushroom dishes. Delicious now with air, it will cellar comfortably for ten to twelve years, gaining truffle and earthy nuance.

This is Morgon at its most classic, granite driven, structured and built to evolve.