2024 Jean-Marc et Thomas Bouley Meursault, Burgundy

Jean Marc Bouley has long been associated with Volnay, where the family domaine has deep roots and an enviable collection of Côte de Beaune vineyards. His son Thomas joined the domaine in the early 2000s and gradually took over the winemaking, bringing meticulous vineyard work and an increasingly fine touch in the cellar. Although the domaine is best known for its reds, the small amount of Meursault makes for a fascinating glimpse at the Bouley approach to Chardonnay.

Meursault has an extraordinary ability to combine generosity with mineral tension, and the 2024 vintage gives that contrast plenty of energy. Rather than chasing buttery richness, Bouley’s style keeps the fruit clear and the oak measured, allowing the village’s nutty, stony character to emerge. There is youthful tightness here too, suggesting a few years in the cellar will be well rewarded.

Pale gold with white peach, pear and lemon at first, followed by nectarine, citrus blossom and a touch of preserved lemon. Hazelnut and almond meal emerge with air, joined by chalk, subtle spice and a faint smoky note. The palate has lovely breadth without heaviness, with ripe stone fruit wrapped around bright acidity and a gently creamy texture. Lemon, toasted nuts and cool mineral notes carry the finish.

Seared scallops with cauliflower purée and brown butter would be hard to resist. Roast turbot, crab ravioli, grilled marron or a leek and Comté tart would also suit its combination of richness and freshness. Our pick is the scallops, particularly with a handful of toasted hazelnuts scattered over the top.

Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2038.