2024 Julian Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben, Mosel

Great concentration and brilliance, with enormous old-vine intensity. Off-the-scale wet-stone minerality in the almost endless finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2027.

98 points James Suckling

Julian Haart has become one of the brightest stars of the modern Mosel, earning international acclaim for Rieslings that combine crystalline precision with profound respect for tradition. Working with old, ungrafted vines on some of the region's most celebrated slate slopes, Haart crafts wines of remarkable transparency and finesse. His Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben is a brilliant expression of one of the Mosel's greatest vineyards, where ancient vines and meticulous viticulture produce a wine of extraordinary purity, energy and longevity.

The legendary Goldtröpfchen vineyard, whose name translates to "little droplets of gold", occupies a steep, south facing amphitheatre overlooking the Mosel River. Its weathered Devonian slate soils store warmth by day and release it through the cool evenings, allowing Riesling to ripen slowly while preserving exhilarating acidity. Sourced from old vines with naturally low yields, the 2024 vintage captures the vineyard's unique ability to balance delicate sweetness with remarkable tension. Gentle handling in the winery ensures every nuance of site and season is preserved, resulting in a Kabinett of exceptional clarity and poise.

Pale straw with shimmering green highlights, the bouquet is intensely aromatic, revealing white peach, green apple and lime blossom intertwined with jasmine, fresh herbs and wet slate. As the wine opens, notes of ripe citrus, crunchy pear and a hint of honey emerge, adding further depth without diminishing its vibrant freshness. The palate dances with pristine orchard fruit and juicy citrus, carried by feather light sweetness and electrifying acidity that gives the wine incredible lift and precision. A pronounced slate driven minerality lingers through an exceptionally long finish, leaving an impression of purity, delicacy and effortless balance that is the hallmark of great Mosel Kabinett.

Superb with freshly shucked oysters, sashimi, Thai green curry, Vietnamese rice paper rolls, spicy Korean fried chicken or young goat's cheese. While irresistible in its youth, this outstanding Riesling has the concentration and balance to evolve beautifully for twenty years or more, gradually revealing even greater complexity while retaining its remarkable freshness.