2024 L.A.S. Vino Albino PNO, Margaret River

Albino PNO is one of those rosés that’s lovely on its own but much better with food, as it’s super textural. A pale coppery hue. Enticing thanks to the aromas and flavours – all florals, beeswax and freeze-dried raspberries. The palate unfurls with spiced poached cherries, clotted cream and pear-skin phenolics adding texture.

95 points Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au

L.A.S. Vino Albino PNO from Margaret River is one of Australia’s most intriguing and innovative wines a textural, fragrant white Pinot Noir that defies convention. Crafted by Nic Peterkin, one of the most creative winemakers of his generation, it’s made entirely from Pinot Noir grapes that are gently pressed before skin contact, producing a wine that’s pale, aromatic, and deeply complex. It’s an exploration of purity and texture, showing how far artistry and instinct can push traditional winemaking boundaries.

The fruit comes from carefully selected vineyard sites in Wilyabrup, where Margaret River’s maritime influence ensures cool nights, warm days, and perfect ripening conditions. Grapes are hand harvested, whole bunch pressed, and fermented naturally in old French oak barrels. The juice, free of any colour extraction, is left on lees for several months to enhance mouthfeel and savoury depth. Nic Peterkin’s light touch in the cellar means the final wine captures both the delicacy of Pinot Noir and the tactile complexity of great Chardonnay, all with an ethereal transparency unique to this style.

In the glass, it shimmers a delicate blush gold. The aroma is subtle yet captivating, showing white peach, orange peel, strawberry cream and rose petal, with hints of almond and flint. The palate is graceful and layered, offering flavours of citrus, red apple and stone fruit woven with chalky texture and vibrant acidity. There’s a whisper of tannin from the grape skins and a savoury undercurrent that anchors the wine beautifully. The finish is long, saline and elegant a perfect balance between innovation and refinement.

L.A.S. Vino Albino PNO pairs beautifully with grilled salmon, shellfish, roast chicken, or soft cheeses. It’s also superb alongside Japanese cuisine or dishes featuring ginger and sesame. While delicious now for its texture and perfume, it will continue to evolve over five to eight years, gaining more savoury complexity with age.