2024 Maison Thorin Beaujolais Villages, Burgundy

Maison Thorin has deep roots in Beaujolais, a region where Gamay finds its most joyful and expressive form among the rolling granite hills north of Lyon. Beaujolais-Villages comes from selected communes in the region’s more favoured northern sector, where higher elevations and granitic soils give the wines extra perfume, freshness and structure. This is proper bistro Beaujolais — bright, juicy and made for the table rather than the trophy cabinet.

The 2024 vintage produced lively, fragrant wines with plenty of freshness. Gamay’s natural exuberance suits the year beautifully, delivering vibrant red fruit without heaviness. The granite-rich terroir brings a subtle mineral and savoury edge beneath all that juicy fruit, making this considerably more interesting than its easy-going personality initially suggests.

Bright ruby with flashes of purple, the nose jumps from the glass with raspberry, Morello cherry and wild strawberry, followed by violet, cracked pepper and a little dried thyme. The palate is juicy and energetic, with crunchy red fruit, supple tannins and mouthwatering acidity. Cherry skin, pepper and a faint earthy note appear through the middle before a bright, moreish finish of raspberry and spice.

Serve this slightly cool and bring on the charcuterie: saucisson, pâté en croûte, roast chicken with crispy skin, Toulouse sausages and lentils, mushroom tart or a gloriously gooey croque monsieur.