2024 Papagiannakos Assyrtikos, Attica

Papagiannakos Assyrtikos from Attica is a luminous mainland take on Greece’s most iconic white grape, crafted with precision and respect by Vassilis Papagiannakos. While Assyrtiko is synonymous with the windswept cliffs of Santorini, here in Attica—just outside Athens—it reveals a slightly rounder, more fruit-forward side without losing any of its trademark verve or minerality.

The vines grow in the sun-soaked Markopoulo region, rooted in poor limestone soils that provide excellent drainage and encourage low yields with intense flavour. The Aegean breeze plays its part too, cooling the vineyards and preserving acidity during Greece’s hot, dry summers. Papagiannakos was the first to build a bioclimatic winery in Greece, powered by solar energy and designed to operate sustainably in harmony with the landscape.

Fermented in stainless steel, the wine is clean and pure, with no oak influence. On the nose, it opens with lemon zest, grapefruit, white peach and crushed seashell. The palate is taut and racy, with juicy citrus and saline minerality underpinned by a touch of textural roundness that makes it both refreshing and satisfying. The finish is long, stony and mouthwatering.

It’s a natural match for grilled calamari, lemon-splashed octopus, Greek salads or even soft sheep’s cheese with herbs. A beautiful balance of tradition and innovation, this is Assyrtiko with a distinctly Attican soul.