2024 Philip Shaw No 89 Shiraz, Orange

Philip Shaw’s No 89 Shiraz comes from the cool-climate vineyards of Orange in New South Wales, a region renowned for producing Shiraz with perfume, spice, and structure rather than sheer weight. The vineyard sits at an impressive 900 metres above sea level on the extinct volcano of Mount Canobolas, where ancient basalt soils, crisp nights, and sunny days create ideal conditions for slow, even ripening. The wine’s name pays tribute to Philip Shaw’s long career in winemaking, with “89” marking both a personal milestone and a nod to his innovative spirit in planting Shiraz in one of Australia’s highest-altitude regions.

In the glass, No 89 Shiraz is deep crimson with a purple edge. Aromas of blackberry, dark cherry, and blood plum mingle with lifted violet, cracked black pepper, and a savoury smoked meat note. The palate is medium-bodied but concentrated, with layers of dark fruit, spice, and earthy complexity wrapped in fine, chalky tannins. French oak maturation, in both new and seasoned barrels, adds subtle cedar, clove, and cocoa, while preserving freshness and vibrancy. There’s an elegance and tension that sets it apart from warmer climate Australian Shiraz, making it as much about structure and detail as richness.

It pairs beautifully with slow-roasted lamb with rosemary, venison with juniper and pepperberry, grilled eggplant with tahini, or a wild mushroom and thyme risotto. While already showing charm, it will cellar gracefully for 8 to 10 years, developing more savoury, gamey complexity.