2024 Stonier Reserve Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula

Estate fruit off three blocks – the original, KBS and Windmill. 20% whole bunches in the fermentation and aged in French barriques, 11% new. What is pleasing with this Reserve is that it’s all about elegance. Nothing is forced, it’s not extracted; instead, it’s perfumed, enticing and detailed. Earthy and red fruited, with cardamon and chinotto, blood orange and zest, the mid-weighted palate alive with juicy acidity and tempered by filagree tannins. This is Julian Ground’s first full vintage since taking over. His arrival bodes well for Stonier (he’s a co-owner); exciting to have this producer back on track.

96 points Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au

Stonier’s Reserve Pinot Noir is the flagship expression from one of the Mornington Peninsula’s most respected producers, and under the guidance of winemaker Julian Grounds it has reached an exceptional level of finesse and purity. Founded in 1978 by Brian Stonier, the estate was a pioneer in the region’s development as a cool climate haven for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The vineyards, set in Merricks and neighbouring subregions, enjoy a maritime climate moderated by the waters of Western Port Bay, with ancient volcanic and sandy loam soils that lend the wines both aromatic lift and mineral detail. The Reserve Pinot Noir is crafted from the finest parcels of the vintage, chosen for their depth, perfume, and structural elegance.

Julian Grounds brings a wealth of experience from top wineries in Australia, New Zealand, and Burgundy, and his approach with the Reserve Pinot Noir focuses on site expression and gentle handling. Hand-picked fruit is carefully sorted before fermentation in small open vessels, often including a portion of whole bunches to enhance fragrance and tannin complexity. Maturation in fine-grained French oak, with a proportion new, adds subtle spice and textural depth while allowing the fruit to remain at the forefront.

The wine shows a vibrant ruby hue and an aromatic spectrum of red cherry, raspberry, and cranberry interwoven with rose petal, wild herbs, and an earthy forest floor nuance. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, silky, and layered, with a core of red fruit supported by savoury spice, hints of rhubarb, and fine, chalky tannins. The interplay of fresh acidity and precise structure makes for a long, graceful finish, a hallmark of both the site and the vintage.

It is a natural partner to dishes such as duck breast with cherry glaze, lamb rack with rosemary and garlic, wild mushroom and truffle risotto, or grilled salmon. While approachable now for its aromatic charm and supple texture, it has the concentration and balance to evolve beautifully over 8–12 years, developing deeper earthy and gamey complexity.