2024 Swinney Syrah, Frankland River

Twelve days on skins, a touch of new oak (8%), wild fermented; just under a third is whole bunches. This is a sinewy, taut, textural, medium-weight red wine laden with green herbs and spice, chewy cranberry, dark cherry, mulberry and a good shake of clove spice. A bit of ginger biscuit, some cinnamon bark notes, a curious quinine element, too; pleasingly bitter and spicy, again. Tannins find an emery board texture, a good chomp and chew, and stretch the wine long. This feels very 'syrah' all up. It's beautifully composed, albeit a touch on edge in youth, but it will settle wonderfully.

95+ points Mike Bennie winecompanion.com.au

The Swinney Syrah from Frankland River is a beautifully detailed expression of cool-climate Shiraz, crafted with finesse and precision by one of Western Australia’s most acclaimed producers. The Swinney family has been farming in Frankland River since 1922, and today their vineyards are regarded as some of the best in the Great Southern region. Known for their meticulous viticulture, including dry-grown bush vines and a focus on sustainable practices, Swinney produces wines that are celebrated for their perfume, texture and sense of place.

The Syrah comes from vines planted on ironstone gravel, loam and clay soils, which naturally restrict yields and concentrate flavour. Frankland River’s climate – marked by warm days, cool nights and long growing seasons – allows Syrah to develop ripe fruit while retaining vibrant acidity and aromatic lift. Grapes are hand-harvested, with a portion left as whole bunches during fermentation to add spice and structure. Ageing takes place in large-format French oak, ensuring elegance and subtle complexity without overpowering the fruit.

In the glass, it shows a deep crimson-purple hue. Aromatically, the wine is fragrant and layered, with notes of blackberry, blueberry and mulberry woven through with violet, pepper, spice and a savoury mineral edge. On the palate it is medium to full-bodied, supple and textural, with juicy dark fruits balanced by fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. A savoury core of spice and earth carries through to a long, graceful finish.

Food pairings reflect its cool-climate style: chargrilled lamb cutlets, venison with juniper, duck with five-spice, or vegetarian options like mushroom ragù, lentil stew or roasted beetroot with thyme. The structure and balance suggest excellent cellaring potential of 10 to 12 years, with the wine gaining further savoury and smoky complexity over time.