2024 Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Rosso Feudo di Mezzo, Sicily

Strawberry, caramel and cedar aromas with hints of vanilla are enticing. Medium-bodied with fine, firm tannins and a juicy, lightly chewy finish. Turns smoky and almost peaty at the end with dried herbs local to the volcanic slopes. Typical and sophisticated. Drink or hold.

97 points James Suckling

Tenuta delle Terre Nere has been one of the driving forces behind Etna’s modern renaissance. Marco de Grazia began assembling vineyards on the volcano’s northern slopes in the early 2000s, fascinated by ancient vines, extreme altitude and the patchwork of old lava flows that makes one contrada taste quite different from the next. His decision to bottle these sites separately helped establish the idea of Etna’s contrade as something akin to individual crus. Feudo di Mezzo is one of the estate’s most important examples.

Feudo di Mezzo lies around Passopisciaro on Etna’s northern slope, where old Nerello Mascalese vines grow in dark, mineral rich volcanic soils at considerable elevation. Warm Sicilian sunshine is tempered by cold nights and mountain air, preserving fragrance and acidity. The 2024 is very much Etna rather than stereotypical Sicily: pale in colour, fragrant, finely structured and driven more by energy and volcanic character than sheer ripeness.

Luminous ruby garnet with sour cherry, wild raspberry and redcurrant followed by violet and blood orange. Pomegranate, fennel and anise appear with air, joined by black tea, dried herbs and that distinctive smoky, stony character Etna does so well. The palate is finely drawn, with pure red fruit, vibrant acidity and firm, powdery tannins. Cherry and citrus peel move into liquorice, tea leaf and volcanic spice across a long, savoury finish.

Charred swordfish with tomato, capers and olives has enough flavour for the Nerello without overwhelming its perfume. Eggplant involtini, mushroom arancini, duck with lentils or grilled octopus with white beans would take it happily in other directions. A slight chill and a large Burgundy glass will show just how elegant Etna Rosso can be.

Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2040.