2024 Thistledown Thorny Devil Grenache, Barossa Valley

From a panoply of Vale sites, all old vines, all dry grown, with some whole bunch in all ferments; yeasts are native and extraction gentle. In general, a warmer year than the preceding few, though not excessively so. This has that bit more flesh and plump than its predecessor, a heartiness to the fruit, though still transparent, still buoyant. Grenache’s red fruit arsenal is on display in raspberry, cherry, redcurrant, pomegranate et al, along with billowing rose-scented florals, though on the more generous end of that palette. There are also some scrubby herbs, a little white pepper spice, a scuff of earth, and a delivery that is relatively gentle of structure.

93 points Special Value Marcus Ellis MW winecompanion.com.au

A light, bright, cherry red in the glass. Pretty aromas of dried herbs, raspberry, sarsaparilla, bramble, clove and spice. Light in body, mouth-filling and with a lovely energy and purity on the palate. There's a drive of blue fruits, along with Asian spice, earth, textured tannins and crunchy, cranberry like acidity. Long and layered 14 Feb 2025 Drink 2025–2032

92 points Aaron Brasher therealreview.com

Thistledown Thorny Devil Grenache from the Barossa Valley is a vibrant, complex, and beautifully balanced expression of old-vine Grenache. Thistledown Wines, founded by Master of Wine Giles Cooke and winemaker Fergal Tynan, has gained a reputation for producing some of Australia’s most exciting Grenache, with a focus on minimal intervention and site-specific winemaking. The Thorny Devil Grenache is sourced from dry-grown, bush-trained vineyards in the Barossa, where old vines produce intensely flavored fruit with incredible depth and finesse.

The name Thorny Devil reflects both the resilience of the old vines and the winery’s commitment to crafting wines with personality and vibrancy. The fruit is handpicked from some of the region’s finest Grenache sites, including vineyards in the sandy soils of Vine Vale and the ironstone-rich hills of Krondorf. Fermentation is done with wild yeasts, and a portion of whole bunches is included to enhance aromatic lift and structure. The wine is then aged in seasoned French oak to retain purity and freshness while adding subtle complexity.

Brilliant ruby in color, Thorny Devil Grenache opens with perfumed aromas of red cherry, wild strawberry, and pomegranate, alongside hints of dried rose petal, thyme, and warm spice. The palate is silky yet structured, with juicy red fruit, fine-grained tannins, and a refreshing acidity that gives the wine exceptional drinkability. Layers of spice, crushed herbs, and a touch of earthiness add depth, leading to a long, energetic finish with lingering notes of cranberry and white pepper.

A fantastic example of modern Barossa Grenache, this wine offers outstanding value for its quality and complexity. It pairs beautifully with roast lamb, grilled eggplant, and Mediterranean-inspired dishes, while its bright fruit and fine tannins also make it a great match for charcuterie, duck, or aged cheeses. While drinking beautifully now, it will continue to evolve over the next 5–8 years.