2024 Valenciso Rioja Laderas de Cabama, Rioja

Valenciso was founded in 1998 by Luis Valentín and Carmen Enciso, two seasoned Rioja hands who set out to make elegant, contemporary wines with freshness firmly at their core. Based in Rioja Alta, the estate has become known for thoughtful winemaking and a less-is-more approach to oak. Laderas de Cabama takes that philosophy right back to the vineyard, highlighting the character of a specific hillside site rather than simply the broader Rioja identity.

The 2024 vintage brings youthful energy and aromatic lift, with the elevated vineyards of Rioja Alta helping retain freshness and acidity. The slopes — laderas — encourage drainage and give the wine a more defined, savoury personality, while Valenciso’s measured cellar work keeps the fruit bright rather than burying it beneath oak. It’s Rioja with the volume turned down and the detail turned up.

Bright ruby with violet edges, the nose opens with red cherry, raspberry and juicy plum, followed by violet, liquorice and dried mountain herbs. With air come hints of orange peel, black tea, crushed stone and gentle peppery spice. The palate is lively and beautifully shaped, with crunchy red fruit, fine tannins and bright acidity. There’s a delicious herbal and earthy note underneath, finishing fresh with sour cherry, liquorice and a little mineral bite.

Give this one lamb skewers with smoked paprika, grilled chorizo, jamón croquetas, pork chops with roasted peppers or mushrooms cooked with garlic and thyme. I’d go for the lamb skewers — smoky edges, sweet meat and a squeeze of lemon against that bright, savoury Rioja fruit sounds like a very good reason to open a second bottle.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2034.