2024 Vickery Polish Hill River Riesling, Clare Valley

Pale straw in the glass with a youthful flash of green and aromas of juicy, freshly squeezed limes, green apple and grapefruit with crushed stone, meadow flowers, citrus blossom, lemongrass and makrut lime. Sleek, with just a squeak of pithy texture, beautiful limey fruit, a long, dry, focused finish and a velocity and cadence that is perfectly composed.

95 points Special Value Dave Brookes winecompanion.com.au

Polish Hill River is the spine of Clare Valley Riesling, and this wine carries the legacy of one of Australia’s great Riesling names. The Vickery label honours John Vickery, often called the godfather of Australian Riesling, whose career shaped the modern dry style in Clare and Eden Valleys. Today the wines are made under the guidance of the Oatley winemaking team, continuing Vickery’s philosophy of purity, line and longevity. The Polish Hill River subregion is cooler and more elevated than much of Clare, with rocky slate and shale soils that naturally produce tighter, more mineral wines.

Fruit is picked early to preserve piercing acidity and delicate aromatics. In the cellar the handling is intentionally minimal. Whole bunch pressing protects finesse, fermentation is cool and slow in stainless steel to lock in clarity, and there is no oak to distract from the vineyard. The result is a Riesling built on tension and precision rather than fruit sweetness.

Pale straw with green flashes, the aromas open with lime zest, lemon blossom and green apple layered with jasmine and crushed stone. The palate is light bodied but intense, with citrus fruit threaded through electric acidity. Flavours of lime, grapefruit and subtle slate notes stretch into a long, bone dry finish that feels crystalline and mouthwatering.

It pairs beautifully with oysters, sashimi, spicy Asian dishes and fresh salads. While thrilling in its youth, it will cellar confidently for twenty years or more, developing classic Clare Valley notes of toast and honey while retaining its acid backbone.

This is Polish Hill River Riesling at full definition, pure, mineral and built for decades.