2024 Weathercraft Amphora Blanco, Beechworth

60/40% albariño/chardonnay. Whole bunch, wild fermented in amphora, where it stayed for 10 months prior to bottling. Scents of freshly peeled ginger, fenugreek and white stone fruit with lime zest sewn in. It's textural and saline with enduring length. The thought of drinking it cold evokes kicking off your summer sandals, sitting outside on a balmy night under festoon lighting and worrying only about which salty snacks to pair it with.

95 points Special Value Katrina Butler for Halliday Wine Companion

Innovation and curiosity sit at the heart of Weathercraft, a small Beechworth producer exploring alternative varieties and traditional techniques through a distinctly Australian lens. Working with carefully selected fruit from Victoria's premium cool climate vineyards, the team embraces minimal intervention winemaking, allowing site and season to shape the final wine. The Amphora Blanco is a fascinating expression of this philosophy, combining ancient winemaking methods with vibrant modern drinkability.

Fermented and matured in clay amphorae rather than oak or stainless steel, the wine gains texture, complexity and purity without overt winemaking influence. The porous nature of the clay allows gentle oxygen exchange, building mouthfeel while preserving freshness. Beechworth's elevated vineyards and cool nights help retain natural acidity, giving the wine both energy and structure.

Pale straw with a subtle golden hue, the aromas are wonderfully lifted with preserved lemon, white peach, pear skin and grapefruit zest alongside hints of wild herbs, chamomile and crushed stone. The texture is where the wine truly shines, offering a gentle grip and savoury complexity that wraps around flavours of citrus, orchard fruits and subtle spice. Fresh acidity drives the palate forward, while the amphora maturation contributes a beautifully layered, mineral finish that lingers long after each sip.

This versatile white suits grilled sardines with lemon and parsley, kingfish crudo, wood fired octopus, zucchini fritters with herb yoghurt or a fragrant fennel and citrus salad. Enjoy over the next three to six years as the wine develops additional texture and complexity. For adventurous drinkers looking beyond traditional Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, this is a captivating example of how ancient techniques can create something fresh, vibrant and thoroughly contemporary.