2024 Wirra Wirra Hickinbotham Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale

The colour is extraordinary, deep, dark, plummy, almost opaque. This wonderful vineyard was planted back in 1971 and sits in the most northern part of McLaren Vale. It’s been biodynamically farmed and consistently produces outstanding fruit that finds its way into some marvellous wines. Typical of this site, the wine is supremely elegant and stylish, perfumed yet powerful, with impeccable structure and poise. A classy expression of Australian cabernet from an exceptional area. Talk about seamless and integrated, this one speaks of both and more. Drink to 2040.

97 points Ray Jordan for Wine Pilot, November 2025

This comes off the biodynamic Hickenbotham vineyard in Clarendon, a picturesque site, with vines snaking around the contours of the rolling hills. It’s also cool there, ideal for cabernet in the region; 12 months in barrel, 15% new French. Mulberry, whorls of wild blackberry, raspberry, tapenade, lavender and violet, Swiss chocolate, fine vanilla, clove, cedar and cigar box. Such intensity without heaviness or headiness, poised and linear, tannins polished, acidity an integrated conduit of vitality. Cabernet is often underrated in McLaren Vale, or rather outside of it. The wines emerging from Clarendon, such as this, may just change that. Drink to 2038.

96+ points (Special Value) Marcus Ellis for Halliday Wine Companion, August 2026

Deep and inky in colour, with a gorgeous fragrance of violet florals, leaf and chocolate, blackcurrant and blueberry confiture, ripe and concentrated. Aromas to make your mouth water. Young and fresh on the palate, tangy acidity driving a fleshy core, integrated tannins steering through to a long finish. Drink to 2040.

96 points Melissa Moore for The Real Review, January 2026

Classic Cabernet from the outset, with blackcurrant, cedar, sweet vanilla biscuit oak, mint and tilled earth lifting from the glass without coaxing. Air unlocks plum, pimento, graphite and whispers of black olive. The palate is bold yet lifted, echoing the oak and fruit notes with a firm assertion of grainy tannins. Minty freshness carries through a long, persistent finish. The oak sits a touch forward at present, but this should integrate further with time in the cellar. Overall, this shows strong complexity, quality fruit and solid length.

93 points Tom Kline for Wine Pilot, February 2026

Wirra Wirra was established in 1894 by Robert Strangways Wigley. Having fallen into disrepair after his death in 1926, it was resurrected by Greg Trott, who with his cousin along with his cousin Roger Trott bought the property in 1969. They restored the historic ironstone cellars and revived what is now one of Australia’s most loved names in wine.

The Wirra Wirra team passes by a large slate installation as they enter the winery, inscribed by Greg’s mantra: Never give misery an even break, nor bad wine a second sip. You must be serious about quality, dedicated to your task in life, especially winemaking, but this should all be fun.

Today, the much-enlarged estate vineyards across McLaren Vale are complemented by fruit from long-term growers in the Adelaide Hills, with vineyard work managed by a team lead by viticulturist Anton Groffen. The original estate vineyards around the winery, as well as those the team manages, are certified organic and biodynamic.

The ladies rule back at the winery, with chief winemaker Emma Wood working closely with Kelly Wellington and Grace Wang. Each wine in the Wirra Wirra portfolio has a defined style but with allowance for vintage variation. The stylistic thread across the wines is a balance of generosity and elegance.