2024 Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Les Chaillets, Rhone

Granite and biotite soils. Ambient-yeast fermentation. Aged for 8 months, 50% in 30-hl foudres and 50% in burgundian barriques. In conversion to organic.
Tasted blind. Apricot, almond and nectarine on the nose. The palate is juicy, rich, opulent and expansive. A much-needed sense of freshness lurks underneath the rich core. (AC)

16.5/20 Jancis Robinson

From steep granite terraces above the Rhône, Les Chaillets is one of Yves Cuilleron’s most expressive Condrieu sites, and it shows just how refined Viognier can be when handled with restraint. Based in Chavanay, Cuilleron has built his reputation on precision, working these slopes to capture perfume and texture without letting the wine tip into excess.

The 2024 vintage feels lifted and detailed. Aromatics open with apricot and white peach, layered with mandarin and a hint of preserved lemon. There is a floral note of jasmine and honeysuckle, alongside a gentle spice thread, ginger and a touch of almond, with a faint stony edge keeping everything grounded.

On the palate it is medium to full bodied with a silky, flowing texture, but there is a line of freshness that keeps the wine composed. Stone fruit richness sits at the core, moving into more savoury territory, spice, nuts and a lightly saline edge, finishing long and balanced rather than heavy.

Cuilleron’s winemaking is thoughtful and controlled, a mix of stainless steel and oak to build texture while preserving clarity and site expression.

This is a brilliant match for seafood with a bit of richness and spice. Think grilled prawns with chilli and garlic, scallops with saffron butter, or a seafood stew with fennel and citrus. It also works beautifully with dishes like roast chicken with preserved lemon, or something more unexpected like a spiced fish tagine or prawn and ginger dumplings, where the wine’s aromatics and texture really come into play.

Drinking beautifully now for its perfume and balance, it will evolve over the next five to eight years, gaining more honeyed and nutty complexity while holding its shape.