2025 Audrey Wilkinson Pinot Grigio, Orange

Audrey Wilkinson may be one of the Hunter Valley’s historic names, but for this Pinot Grigio the story heads west to the cool, elevated vineyards of Orange. The Wilkinson family’s wine history dates to 1866, with Audrey taking charge of the family vineyard as a young man and becoming an innovative figure in the early Hunter wine industry. Today the label reaches beyond Pokolbin when another region particularly suits the variety, and Orange makes plenty of sense for Pinot Grigio.

Altitude does much of the work around Mount Canobolas. Sunny days allow the grapes to build flavour, while those much cooler nights help retain the acidity and freshness that Pinot Grigio needs. The 2025 keeps things bright and uncomplicated, favouring orchard fruit, citrus and gentle texture rather than richness or oak. It’s exactly the sort of white you want cold and ready when seafood appears.

Pale straw with green highlights, opening with Nashi pear, green apple and white peach. Lemon blossom and pink grapefruit add lift, with fennel and a little almond skin giving the wine a more savoury edge. The palate is dry and juicy, with pear and citrus carried by crisp acidity and a light textural grip. Grapefruit peel and fresh almond sharpen the clean, refreshing finish.

Prawn and ginger dumplings have this written all over them, especially with black vinegar, fresh ginger and a dab of chilli oil. Salt and pepper squid, kingfish crudo with citrus, zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta or spaghetti alle vongole would also sit happily alongside. Our pick is the dumplings, keeping the whole combination fresh, savoury and dangerously easy to polish off.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2029.