2025 Clonakilla Viognier, Canberra District

Clonakilla was founded in 1971 by Dr John Kirk, an Irish-born CSIRO research scientist who planted the first vines in what would become the Canberra District, one of Australia's most compelling cool-climate regions. His son Tim Kirk has been chief winemaker since the late 1990s, and it is Tim who introduced the Shiraz Viognier that made the estate famous.

Clonakilla's home vineyard sits at 600 metres above sea level near Murrumbateman on decomposed granite soils, and the combination of altitude, significant diurnal temperature variation and cool nights defines the elegant, aromatic and precise house style.

The Viognier is barrel fermented and aged for a year on lees in large format French oak demi-muids. The winemaking choices are designed to give the variety's natural richness some structure and savoury depth without obscuring its characteristic perfume.

The result is a wine of real character — lifted stone fruit, apricot kernel, mixed spice and a trace of nutty barrel on the nose. The palate is rich and textured with genuine savoury grip through the finish, the kind of backbone that makes this a serious food wine rather than simply an aromatic white. Long and composed.

This would pair beautifully with a roast chicken with tarragon butter and root vegetables, or a Provençal-style tuna with olives and tomato. The wine's stone fruit richness and savoury grip sit well with either.

Drink now through 2030.