2025 Cullen Grace Madeline SBS Biodynamic, Margaret River

Light straw colour; savoury aromas of nutty barrel work with straw, cured hay and lightly toasted cashews. In the mouth, it's medium bodied and very dry, again a savoury suite of flavours and none of the greener notes of these varieties in this region. Some spiciness builds on the palate with repeat sips. Very good intensity, weight and persistence, and a clean and appetising fnish. A smart blend that promises to show more detail if given some more time in the bottle. 17 Jan 2026 Drink 2026–2037

94 points Huon Hooke therealreview.com

One of Margaret River’s most distinctive and quietly profound white wines, this is a benchmark Australian expression of Sauvignon Blanc blended with Semillon, shaped by biodynamics, restraint and an unwavering sense of place. Grace Madeline is Cullen’s flagship white, grown on the estate’s Wilyabrup vineyard where ancient gravelly soils, cooling Indian Ocean breezes and meticulous biodynamic farming produce fruit of remarkable intensity and natural balance. Under the stewardship of Vanya Cullen, this wine has become a global reference for how Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon can move beyond simple freshness into something layered, textural and deeply age worthy.

The blend is typically led by Sauvignon Blanc, with Semillon contributing weight, texture and longevity. Everything about the winemaking is geared toward expression rather than impact. Wild fermentation, careful handling and sensitive oak use build complexity without masking the vineyard’s voice. The style is inspired more by great white Bordeaux and fine European whites than by overtly aromatic Sauvignon Blanc, favouring savoury depth, structure and evolution in bottle.

In the glass it shows pale straw to light gold with green tinges. Aromas are subtle yet complex, opening with lemon zest, lime leaf and white peach, followed by grapefruit pith, chamomile, fresh hay and a gentle lanolin note from the Semillon. With air, deeper layers emerge, beeswax, almond meal, struck flint and a faint saline character that speaks clearly of its coastal origin.

The palate is medium bodied and beautifully composed, with citrus and stone fruit flavours carried by a fine, chalky texture and a long, integrated acid line. There is no overt sweetness or pungency, instead a savoury, mouthcoating feel that builds quietly through the mid palate. Semillon brings breadth and length, while Sauvignon Blanc provides energy and definition. The finish is persistent, mineral and gently phenolic, designed for the table rather than simple refreshment.

This is a superb food wine. Think roast chicken, grilled fish, scallops, lobster, creamy pasta, pork with herbs, vegetable dishes with butter or olive oil, and aged cheeses. While compelling now with air, Grace Madeline truly rewards patience and will cellar confidently for fifteen to twenty years, developing honeyed, nutty, toast and lanolin complexity while retaining freshness and line.

Grace Madeline is not a loud wine. It is precise, thoughtful and deeply expressive, a white that unfolds slowly and speaks clearly of Cullen’s philosophy and Margaret River’s capacity for world class, age worthy whites.