2025 Giant Steps Applejack Chardonnay, Yarra Valley

It’s a beauty. Pure, long, showing a little more flint than usual, all line and length in general but with a bit of extra punch and flare on top... Fantastic wine. Compelling. Intense. On a mission.

96 points Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front

Applejack vineyard was planted at Gladysdale by Ray Guerin in '97, and only 2ha of its 11ha are planted to chardonnay. Fermented and matured in neutral puncheons. While this is a little richer than the '24, all the hallmarks of this vineyard are still here. Light stone fruits, lemon, white flowers and a little flint. The palate is equally restrained, with a lovely fine vein of acidity that runs through the wine. Finishes long and precise. An Applejack that can be enjoyed now and over the next five to seven years.

96+ points Philip Rich, Halliday Wine Companion

Applejack is one of Giant Steps’ most distinctive Upper Yarra vineyards, sitting high near Gladysdale in a cool, elevated pocket of the valley. Giant Steps has become a benchmark for single vineyard Yarra Chardonnay, and under winemaker Melanie Chester the focus is firmly on letting each site speak for itself. Applejack tends to give Chardonnay with fragrance and energy rather than sheer weight, and it has become one of the most sought after whites in the range.

The vineyard’s elevation and cooler conditions extend the growing season, while its grey clay loam and underlying volcanic soils help build flavour without sacrificing acidity. The 2025 season gave Giant Steps beautifully composed Chardonnay fruit, and Applejack’s naturally cool personality comes through with citrus, stone fruit and a fine mineral edge. Oak plays a supporting role, adding texture and savoury complexity rather than sweetness.

Pale straw with flashes of green, the bouquet moves through white peach, nectarine and Meyer lemon into grapefruit blossom, struck flint and fresh almond. There is a little sourdough and hazelnut underneath, but the fruit remains wonderfully clear. The palate is sleek and finely textured, with citrus and stone fruit wrapped around bright acidity. Lemon curd, grapefruit oil and salted almond build through the middle before a long finish of crushed stone, subtle smoke and sea salt.

Try it with lobster and ginger dumplings, scallops with miso butter, grilled king prawns with yuzu, roast chicken with tarragon or crispy tempura whiting. Our pick is the scallops with miso butte.

Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2038.