2025 Il Poggio di Gavi Luna Sul Poggio DOCG, Piedmont

Il Poggio di Gavi is a small family estate devoted to Cortese in the hills around Gavi, where Piedmont begins to lean towards the Ligurian coast. Luna sul Poggio is a lovely expression of that landscape, combining the delicacy of Cortese with the mineral, citrus driven character that has made Gavi one of northern Italy’s classic dry whites.

The vineyards benefit from elevation and cooling maritime influences moving inland from Liguria, while the local soils help Cortese retain its naturally brisk acidity. The 2025 has youthful energy and purity, but there is more going on than simple lemony freshness, with floral notes, orchard fruit and a gently savoury character giving it extra interest.

Pale straw with green flashes, the nose is bright with lemon, Nashi pear and crisp green apple, followed by white peach, acacia blossom and fresh fennel. A touch of almond and crushed stone sits quietly underneath. Light to medium bodied, it is clean and energetic, with citrus and pear carried by mouth watering acidity. Grapefruit, almond skin and a subtle saline note appear towards the finish, leaving the mouth wonderfully refreshed.

Linguine alle vongole would be hard to beat, but salt and pepper squid, kingfish crudo with lemon and capers, grilled prawns with garlic and parsley or zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta would all work beautifully. Our pick is the vongole, with plenty of parsley, garlic and good olive oil.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2031.