2025 L.A.S. Vino CBDB Chenin Blanc Dynamic Blend, Margaret River

Nic Peterkin grew up surrounded by two of Margaret River's most significant wine families — his father Dr Mike Peterkin founded Pierro, his mother Shelly Cullen is from the Cullen family. L.A.S. Vino, which he established in 2013, has taken a deliberately different direction from both — experimental, curious and unafraid of varieties and techniques that Margaret River rarely attempts. The name stands for Luck, Art and Science.

The CBDB is the wine that has earned him most recognition. The fruit comes from a Demeter certified biodynamic vineyard at Yallingup in the northern Margaret River — one of the very few in the region to hold this certification. The farming is about as unconventional as it gets: unpruned, untrellised, animals roaming freely between rows, native plants growing under the vines. The "Dynamic Blend" name is a holdover from earlier vintages when other varieties were included — the wine is now 100% Chenin Blanc, and the dynamic refers to the biodynamic vineyard rather than the blend.

Hand-picked and chilled overnight, whole bunch pressed with a portion of the fruit cold-soaked on skins for 40 hours before fermentation — a technique Nic introduced to build aromatic complexity and texture. Wild fermented in seasoned French barriques and clay amphora, no malolactic fermentation, fortnightly bâtonnage over 10 months before bottling unfined and lightly filtered.

Pale gold, the nose is vivid and layered — pink grapefruit, passionfruit and coconut with chamomile, lime and a saline mineral thread. The palate is textural and vibrant with oily richness held in check by bright, driving acidity and a long, compelling finish.

Unlike any other Chenin Blanc made in Australia, and unlike most made anywhere. This should be a treat at a table, with endless options across various cuisines. Grilled scallops, steamed barramundi with ginger, or a fine grilled piece of fish with herb butter. Worth opening with a meal rather than without — the wine finds its best expression alongside food.

Drink now through 2030.