2025 McHenry Hohnen Laterite Hills Chardonnay, Margaret River

McHenry Hohnen is one of Margaret River’s most thoughtful producers, founded by brothers in law David Hohnen and Murray McHenry. Hohnen’s pedigree is formidable, having previously founded Cape Mentelle and Cloudy Bay, and the estate has long focused on biological farming and letting individual vineyard sites do the talking. Laterite Hills is the more immediately approachable side of the range, but there is plenty of proper Margaret River pedigree behind it.

Chardonnay is right at home in Margaret River’s maritime climate, where warm sunshine is moderated by the Indian Ocean and cool nights help retain acidity. The region’s gravelly lateritic soils give the range its name. The 2025 balances ripe fruit with freshness and subtle winemaking detail, sitting comfortably between lean modern Chardonnay and the richer styles of the past.

Bright straw with white peach, nectarine and lemon leading into grapefruit and pear. A little cashew and almond meal add savoury depth, joined by gentle toast and a faint flinty note. The palate is supple and nicely textured, with stone fruit filling the middle before fresh citrus acidity pulls everything into shape. Lemon peel, cashew and subtle oak carry the clean, savoury finish.

Grilled marron with lemon and garlic butter makes a very Margaret River sort of dinner, while scallops with cauliflower, roast snapper, crab linguine or corn and zucchini fritters with avocado keep the seafood theme rolling. There is enough texture here for richer dishes, but no need to bury it beneath a bucket of cream.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2032.